Black Wash Vs Nuln Oil

For the markings I used Vallejos Black and Citadels Red Gore. Pełny paleta barw Citadel. Wash Nuln Oil Dry brush Stromvermin fur Wash Agrax Eathshade Dry brush Dawnstone, Longbeard grey Dirt: Base coat Rhinox Hide Dry brush Steele Legion drab, Banenlade brown, Karak Stone, Terminatus stone Wash in random patterned on rocks and dirt Rikland fleshshade, Aothnian camoshade Wash whole base Agrax earthshade & water 3:1 Paint trim as. Here, the teeth are improved. It is a non toxic, water based acrylic paint designed for use on all types of miniature, including the Games Workshop range of miniatures manufactured for the Warhammer 40,000, Warhammer Fantasy Battle and Lord of the Rings games sytems. I mixed in some black to the Khorne Red and watered it down close to a wash consistency. I need to go and glue bits of vegetation to the bases. Proxxon Hotwire Cutter (Thermocut) - This is the workhorse of my shop. I now apply a second coat of Nuln Oil over the camo patches to darken them further. The sabers turned out really nice. September 7, I used straight Nuln Oil for the black hair and Steel bits. Before I apply the Lamp Black oil wash, I get transfers applied and paint the metals (If I plan to oil wash these, sometimes I use Nuln oil and then it's not as important). Note, some may prefer to paint the entire area ceramite white, wash with nuln oil then brush a highlight on. Farby akrylowe używane w modelarstwie i do gier bitewnych. -I start off with a black basecoat, followed up with a coat of Vallejo Luftwaffe Camo Green on the hull and turret. Gold bits- base coat with a mid brown colour (metallics don't show up well on red). Dobry wash, który kupiłem w celu porównania z konkurencyjnymi od Vallejo, które musiałem dodatkowo rozcieńczać, tutaj nie zauważyłem tego problemu. The green seemed to take the Nuln Oil well on the test and the steel always comes out looking really nice under that wash. The best way I've done the white parts is as follows:-Prime black. I also found the old Sepia wash great over a number of skin tones -- not so much with the new one. for the golds, vgc glorious gold was used as a base for the armor trim and red lacquered areas. Brass Scorpion on the faceplate trim. Medusa Miniature. Day 5, 6 and 7 The next 3 evenings were spent painting all the parts of the riders that would receive the same wash - black (Citadel Nuln Oil). We have reworked the games workshop area of the store and gave it a face lift!!!. The chevrons are Averland Sunset heavily weathered with chipping (black and Rhinox). Available in 11 colours. 5: Paint metals and then wash metals with nuln oil 6: Black for the wheels with a grey drybrush over the top I will be weathering the whole army at once when the complete force is up to the same standard as it helps me keep consistency doing it in one giant batch. I mixed in some black to the Khorne Red and watered it down close to a wash consistency. I just learned that I probably can't wash that with acrylic (Citadel nuln oil). The B Martian has not yet gotten a wash with the Nuln Oil Gloss. Full List of the New Citadel Paints and More. September 2019 Painting Guide or leave it Zadari Dust and heavy Agrax Wash, Packs: Backpacks, Gore Grunter Brown or Gun Packs Administratum Grey with Nuln Oil Wash, Guns: Administratum Grey with a heavy Nuln oil wash, Vests: One of Four Options (not the same as the pants): Black Templar, Levidon Blue. necromancer cloak I paint all the areas that are going to be black, this includes the boots, the beards, and the belt that goes around his waist. The shoulder pads are done with a gold base, nuln oil layer, and then griffon gold dry brush to bring out the highlights. Does anyone know whose lightsabers they are, especially the two new ones they casted. At the top, choose a time range. Here, the teeth are improved. The best way I've done the white parts is as follows:-Prime black. Tufts applied. I have an engine block (Fiat Mefistofele) painted with Alclad dull aluminum. In need of Badab Black - posted in + GENERAL PCA QUESTIONS +: I know its a discontinued wash, but I have a little less than half a bottle and over half of a army that needs that wash. The primary new techniques I used are the blotched weathering on the rokkits, the simple freehanding of both the rotors and back wings, and the weathering of the bottom. The black wash (GW Nuln Oil) produced a nice grey colour but without adding much depth. This was followed by a thinned Black Ink wash in a few spots to denote the most grimy areas. floor polish mixed with black paint. I bought a few that were not included in the starter set, and decided once the base colors were done to wash the entire mini with Nuln Oil (the new Badab Black). I think about all the times I used a wash on metal and had to practically re-do all my highlights over again. For speed and because of lack of skill, I use cans of spray-paint as much as model acrylic paint, so washes are a necessary part of my "production line". Drybrush all the parts with Runefang Steel. Nuln Oil isn't the same as Badab Black or other previous washes. The initial model weren't much to look at. Wash with Badab Black or Nuln OIl Highlight with Mithril Silver. Anyone know how these compare the the CItadel washes? More specifically, Reapers Black Wash vs. so when the metal parts i went with semi-dark gray color paint, and then went back over with a thin layer of a black wash. Washed with Agrax Earthshade. a single thick coat. For both the probe and gateway I wanted to stick to simple. These models had been previously painted, I stripped the paint off them the best I could, scrubbed them with a toothbrush, and hit them with a black base coat. Pick out some metal parts you want to give more focus and base the with Brassy Brass to break up the rather dull metal colours. This gave me a good base to work over. Sepia wash is ideal for WW2 German vehicles. You could then leave the oils to dry a bit overnight, however, I usually only wait a few hours and then I start cleaning it up. For my last Dread, I had to apply multiple coats of Badab Black to get it right, so it'll be interesting to see how Nuln Oil checks out ;-) Reply Delete. Give them a heavy wash with Agrax Earthshade. Orc flash wash makes for a good & different brown wash, and can also work as leather on a gun strap. I started with a black spray undercoat, a heavy drybrush of Tin Bitz (now Warplock Bronze), a lighter drybrush of Dwarf Bronze (now Hashut Copper), and an extremely light brush of Shining Gold (now Gehenna Gold). I then gave the head, hands and hair, all a wash with some Citadel "Reikland Fleshshade" wash. #2 Nuln Oil is a bit thicker and stickier/tackier than the Vallejo black wash, which is a bit easier to wipe away for this job. This is the easiest step – after priming black, spray with Macragge blue. Vallejo - Bright Bronze, Airbrush colors etc. Salute and Partisan). I had initially tried the GW Nuln Oil but it did not define the features as much as I would have liked. The lower part could be painted black, and the small upper parts, where there’s a pivot, were painted yellow. I highlighted EVERY panel and detail with a lighter color: Grey panels: first light with Splinter Camo. The Nuln Oil is the same as Badarb black, so won't be a replacement for black ink. The bolter casing is painted P3 Coal Black and highlighted with Mechanicus Standard Grey. Barring that, you could make-do with painting a base coat of Ultramarines blue (vallejo). (You can play with this to get a color you like or that works for you. I hit it with the nuln oil and then let it dry. I also dot the barrel of the plasma pistol with black, and draw a few lines on the purity seal while I’m at it. No worries- I love to help! You could even make it all easier just by basecoating your models with Khorne red (don't forget the 'two thin coats' approach, especially over black primer) and then liberally wash it with nuln oil. Use a toothbrush to work it into the stain then let it sit for at least 24 hours before brushing the powder away. Next I apply Ceramite White to one of the cogs, as I think it gives the model something that draws the eye away from the black and silver and ties the army together as Iron. I picked out some of the lenses with red and he was done! Bossk was also relatively simple – an Averland Sunset basecoat with a wash of Reikland Fleshshade, while the white areas were washed with a Nuln Oil/Lahmian Medium. In need of Badab Black - posted in + GENERAL PCA QUESTIONS +: I know its a discontinued wash, but I have a little less than half a bottle and over half of a army that needs that wash. As such I wanted to pick them up and had my friend who worked there hold them for me until I got paid. Apr 28, 2012 Badab Black was a great wash. I'm going to try pin washing but now that looks like a doubtful sollution. Space Marine Tactical squad – The wonderfully hairy @BearMcRowdy kindly donated his Dark Vengeance Space Marine models to the cause. Edit - Sorry I should have also explained, putting a black wash straight onto plastic miniatures will not hold the paint. But the packing tray unit was clearly designed for the Starter Paint set. I washed the metal parts twice, for I wanted more contrast when I highlight them later. Because I use an oil wash I don't have to be too careful when applying this as it dries a lot slower than an acrylic wash. My intent is to talk about shading panel lines (mainly pre-shading, but also post-shading), and why - if you're pursuing a realistic or verisimilitudinous finish, it's a terrible technique that should…. ) This is a loose wash that is nice for adding some shadows to minis. When I first started, I did a lot of research to figure out whether I should buy white or black primer. I had initially tried the GW Nuln Oil but it did not define the features as much as I would have liked. Some final details (chapter badge, chest eagle, Bolter case) and basing finished them off nicely. This is the easiest step – after priming black, spray with Macragge blue. I used the notorious Chaos Black spray primer to start the tank, because the spray isn’t as moist as using regular paint and a brush (and it’s way faster^^). I'm looking to get the black dirty look around bolt heads and in crevices, not terribly dirty. A nice quick process that adds depth quickly. I finished them off by painting the highlights with Ultramarines Blue. Was not there a few weeks ago when I assembled it). The Royal Guard had Nuln Oil (Black Ink) Instead of Blue for the classic look. (You can play with this to get a color you like or that works for you. The model will transform from black into grey, but the deepest recesses will remain dark / black. I wanted pools of 'black' for the eyes so I opted for another store brand black paint that has a glossy finish as opposed to a matte one. Overall, I think both of the models turned out fine. As to painting it also depends on the quality you want to achieve and your experience painting. I painted gold on a few bolters & on top of the sergeant's banners. Here I used Gehennas Gold, to pick up some details, to look as copper or just gilded things :). Games Workshop Paints - Khorne Berzerkers Pt. Then they'll all be given an total wash of Nuln Oil to bring all the colours right down. Tutorial: Painting an "Aliens" Colonial Marine I'm a huge fan of the Alien, Predator and even Alien vs Predator movies, and I'm always looking for new models to use in that setting. ca Product Description. Then a controlled wash with Nuln Oil If you skip the last part, the result is a bit too "chalky" in my view. You mix Liquitex Carbon Ink with Tamiya Clear Orange in a 1:1 ratio, and I think I diluted it with water or possibly Magic Wash. Here is an example of the same technique being used for Black, Brown and Yellow next to the Blue Infant. I thin all my paint with Liquitex Matte Medium and water. Then another coat of Gloss varnish, make sure this has at least a few hours to dry. Coat of Army Painter Black primer, followed by an over spray of Army painter Gun Metal Primer. badab black alternative Apr 24, 2012 Next is Dark Tone Ink and Badab Black. Their old Armour Wash was better. The Rapier carriage was done in the same style as the rest of the Legion's vehicles (and indeed the infantry models too) - Leadbelcher and Brass Scorpion basecoat with an allover Nuln Oil wash, followed by Reikland Fleshshade on the gold. Finally I did the markings, bombs and the canopy. I should have done the glass on the top as well. Fairly simple process. I then Highlighted about 90% of the surface area with Ulthuan grey before adding a final fine highlight of White Scar. The face and head follows a relatively similar approach with a black base and grey highlighting for the features. The bolter casing is painted P3 Coal Black and highlighted with Mechanicus Standard Grey. Because I use an oil wash I don't have to be too careful when applying this as it dries a lot slower than an acrylic wash. I have now finished my 1,000pt Ghar Empire starter battleforce just in time for another game at the HATE Club: A very simple colour scheme for quick painting - Battlesuits: Spray GW Chaos Black. I'm using it as a substitute for Nuln Oil, so I wanted a dirty, black brown wash) Add water until you end up with a milk-like consistency. It doesn't flow as well as Nuln Oil, nor does it seem to provided the flat contrast one would want. At the top right, click More. I highlighted them with Xereus Purple by picking out all of the edges and the tops of all of the folds. The straps were painted using Khorne Red, Nuln Oil and Pink Horror. floor polish mixed with black paint. Once this stage was completed, I blocked in all the base colours. A nice quick process that adds depth quickly. At Salute, I recently picked up a really nice sculpt from Hasslefree miniatures - Akkie the smartgunner. It comes to about 140 points (1/3rd of which is the Hsien) making it one of the more points-heavy starter sets, but also a good set for starter games. Then dark brown+pva+water mix used to paint all over. I used the notorious Chaos Black spray primer to start the tank, because the spray isn’t as moist as using regular paint and a brush (and it’s way faster^^). Citadel Shade: Nuln Oil (24 ml) 65,00 kr SEK Köp. The canopy was also painted black. For both the probe and gateway I wanted to stick to simple. Wash face with Reikland Fleshshade, and all non-bone colored areas with Nuln Oil Paint raised robe areas with Caliban Green, leaving the wash in the recesses. It should go on translucent. The crest on the shoulder should first be painted with Dawnstone followed by a thin wash of Nuln Oil in order to restore the detailing. -Next, the entire model gets a wash with Citadel Nuln Oil. Black Legion/Chaos Space Marine painting techniques, part 2. It was primed with a Zandri Dust rattle can. Now get a fine brush, and make them pop. Citadel Shade: Nuln Oil (0. You have to be sparing with the washes when working with light colors like white. It's a multi-part process that sounds worse then it is. For larger surface areas, this is a must regardless. The final step of this stage is to give the entire model a medium wash of Nuln Oil. These regions were then given a wash with Nuln Oil. I applied a 1:1 mix of Nuln Oil and Agrathearth Shade to the teeth, nails, and mouth areas. Hair color, some feathers. For the markings I used Vallejos Black and Citadels Red Gore. A spray of Caliban green, some green drybrushing, a wash of Nuln Oil, and these guys were practically complete. I may use this for 20mm Austrians where it may prove more useful. Dawnstone on the faceplate. The paint was also quite chipped as it had been painted on the resin with no undercoat, so I scrubbed and resprayed Army Painter Uniform Grey a match for Dawnstone and washed Nuln Oil once I filled in the black and metal areas. I based the miniature with coral beach sand for the rocky/sandy caves of Goblin Town and added some Highland Tufts and Meadow Tufts from The Army Painter Battlefields range. And here's the Nuln Oil wash. Painting battle damage Layer with Boltgun Metal some scratches on the Bolter Casing Wash the scratches with Badab Black Highlight the scratches with Mithril Silver. Another Nuln Oil wash on guns. I have an engine block (Fiat Mefistofele) painted with Alclad dull aluminum. The chest plate icon and purity seal parchment were painted Zhandri Dust, while the joints in the armour were painted black. Here I have used a mix of Leadbelcher Metal and Black, washed with Nuln Oil. The Outcasts are a lot more fiddly due to their small size and are slightly comical looking which is ironic given that essentially the Ghar are the Daleks/Space Nazis of the Gates of Antares universe. I used Army Painter Dark Tone, but you can use GW Nuln Oil if you want. Flesh wash to skin. We have reworked the games workshop area of the store and gave it a face lift!!!. Nuln Oil; Rhinox Hide; Runefang Steel; Snot Green (Warpstone Glow) Vallejo Game Color. Otherwise, you have it right! Try going Wazdakka Red instead of Mephiston as Mephiston isn't quite bright enough. Nuln Oil - wash coat, cap, rifle metal, black boots, and bases Calthan Brown - basecoat belt, ammo pouches, rifle wood, blanket roll, gloves, entrenching tool handle, brown ankle boots, khaki pants/puttees/helmets, and NCO fleece cap (this is the hardest step, and I actually broke it up into multiple steps when painting up 30 of these guys at a. I highlighted EVERY panel and detail with a lighter color: Grey panels: first light with Splinter Camo. Black armour: Chaos Black base, Mechanicus Standard Grey layer, Pipes, straps & gun barrels: Ironbreaker base, Nuln Oil wash; Bullets: Runelord Brass + Xv88 base, Agrax Earthshade wash; Robes: Khorne Red base, Nuln Oil wash, Mephiston Red layer; Skin: Rakarth Flesh base, Reikland Flesh wash, Pallid Wych Flesh layer. But the packing tray unit was clearly designed for the Starter Paint set. Tutorial: Painting an "Aliens" Colonial Marine I'm a huge fan of the Alien, Predator and even Alien vs Predator movies, and I'm always looking for new models to use in that setting. Black watered down to the chainmail, highlighted with chainmail wet-dry brush. Some test painting on 10mm figures 3rd I use a wash of Citadel Nun Oil over the figures. At the top right, click More. Or Reaper Brown Wash vs. Here, the teeth are improved. Finally I did the markings, bombs and the canopy. Using Citadel: Aggrax Earthshade; Nuln Oil; Seraphim Sepia; Metallics, get a 75/25 Nuln Oil/Water. For the yellows I used ivanden (averland) + skull white highlights (white scar) +casandra yellow shade + lamenters yellow. Wash - Nuln Oil; First highlight - Citadel Chainmail; Second highlight - Chainmail and Foundry Spearpoint C Silver mix But, it's not the Black Watch - *Peninsular British. See more ideas about Modeling techniques, Mini paintings and Modeling tips. Should look colorful but grimy Use a desk fan to speed up drying times Reactions: Zombie Ste , Nordheim and Zae55. I just made sure to make it look scratched up. Random, small piece splashes of color (washes) to differentiate duplicates. Army Painter Warpaints vs. A nice quick process that adds depth quickly. IG-88 was probably the simplest model I’ve done yet – A black undercoat followed by Leadbelcher, washed with Nuln Oil. The icon can then be finished off with a final highlight of Administratum Grey. when everything dried i went finally over with a coat of Nuln Oil wash to give the miniatures a di…. Whilst a good chunk do make use of meeples or card tokens, a great many include plastic miniatures and these are a great opportunity to add a special touch to that board game. The aquila received a wash of Agrax Earthshade (the new Devlan Mud), and the metallic on the back pack was washed with the Biel-Tan Green (the new Thraka Green), Agrax Earthshade, and then Nuln Oil to provide a seared and tarnished look. GW Nuln Oil 1st highlight GW Leadbelcher 2nd highlight GW Mithril (now Runefang Steel) for the edges of the armour Then GW Gehenna's Gold for the brass fittings. The other day I mentioned at the end of the 'Strike Squad II' post, that I was going to do a little tutorial on how I based my miniatures, so as promised here it is. In the background, if you are interested, is the set up for the Battle of Fornovo 1495 using Warlord's Pike and Shotte rules. Next I apply Ceramite White to one of the cogs, as I think it gives the model something that draws the eye away from the black and silver and ties the army together as Iron. Wash Nuln Oil Dry brush Stromvermin fur Wash Agrax Eathshade Dry brush Dawnstone, Longbeard grey Dirt: Base coat Rhinox Hide Dry brush Steele Legion drab, Banenlade brown, Karak Stone, Terminatus stone Wash in random patterned on rocks and dirt Rikland fleshshade, Aothnian camoshade Wash whole base Agrax earthshade & water 3:1 Paint trim as. A Dark Angels-style darker green, still with black/brass/red for some highlighting and contrast. B squad after the Nuln Oil Gloss wash on their torsos and legs. I know it would be terrible from a game perspective, but eh, paint what you want to right. Afterwards, you can add your battle damage in a lighter metal colour and it will read as battle damage reasonably well against the darker background. I thin all my paint with Liquitex Matte Medium and water. Some final details (chapter badge, chest eagle, Bolter case) and basing finished them off nicely. So I repainted the model with Mephiston Red, this gave me a brighter red that looked like what I was going for. Tufts applied. (like the Nuln Oil) - my results always had the high areas darkened, and the low/recesses (cuts in clothing) left alone. Citadel Agrax Earthshade. Secondly I washed over this colour with Games Workshop brown wash called Nuln Oil. Base brown and grey, then graveyard earth. Carefully apply the wash to the shells and at the base of any of the blades and claws. When used to wash the entire marine it leaves the marine Far darker over all then badab black did. While that specific claim is yet to be proven, I thought a good way to test my skills would be to challenge the local Imperial die hard to a friendly match of swarm vs swarm. I love these washes as they are easy to use and save a great deal of time. I thin all my paint with Liquitex Matte Medium and water. Black wash over face, shako cords, white habit-veste areas and musket - Citadel Nuln Oil Step away from the models. I hit it with the nuln oil and then let it dry. At this phase I also wash the Purple and Red areas with Nuln Oil. He is a rotting carcass writhing invisibly with power from the Dark Age of. These models had been previously painted, I stripped the paint off them the best I could, scrubbed them with a toothbrush, and hit them with a black base coat. Finally, Leadbelcher washed with Agrax for the armour. Now you do edge highlights on all the colors accept the armor, weapons and lightning bolts which I saved for last. War gaming, board games, card games and more with free shipping and volume pricing. -Wash of Nuln Oil (you may want to dilute the Nuln Oil with some Lahmian Medium so it's a little less dark. However, the gold on Gundam kits is traditionally very yellow gold. After painting the psyche-out grenades I added grass tufts to the base and it was finished. Games Workshop and Southsea Models), and Miniature Shows (e. Fairly simple process. September 2019 Painting Guide or leave it Zadari Dust and heavy Agrax Wash, Packs: Backpacks, Gore Grunter Brown or Gun Packs Administratum Grey with Nuln Oil Wash, Guns: Administratum Grey with a heavy Nuln oil wash, Vests: One of Four Options (not the same as the pants): Black Templar, Levidon Blue. Wash with Badab Black or Nuln OIl Highlight with Mithril Silver. I used the notorious Chaos Black spray primer to start the tank, because the spray isn’t as moist as using regular paint and a brush (and it’s way faster^^). The upper legs of the Tryon 3 conformed almost perfectly to the colour breakdown on Razorclaw. The red trim gets a Carroburg Crimson or Baal Red wash. Mephiston Red was used to clean up the Nuln Oil that strayed too far from the eyes. Citadel Color Nuln Oil Wash A couple notes before we get started. Only difference, before the glossy varnish I gave the minis a thinned layer of Citadels Guilliman Blue Glaze. Slather this all over, but be careful not to go too heavy or you'll get weird pools of Shade on the armour. You can apply multiple coats in some areas to create added depth. The other layer, Celestra Grey, pops nicely. Random, small piece splashes of color (washes) to differentiate duplicates. All the metal was again leadbelcher with a wash of nuln oil. Wash with…. My technique for bare, mechanical metal is always the same (Leadbelcher base, heavy Nuln Oil wash, and Runefang Steel as either an edge highlight or conservative drybrush). If you like it more subtle stick to one coat, or try a third coat for darker patches. Some test painting on 10mm figures 3rd I use a wash of Citadel Nun Oil over the figures. For the markings I used Vallejos Black and Citadels Red Gore. I personally tend to just buy the proper GW washes and thin them with water as I need. floor polish mixed with black paint. Wash face with Reikland Fleshshade, and all non-bone colored areas with Nuln Oil Paint raised robe areas with Caliban Green, leaving the wash in the recesses. The crest on the shoulder should first be painted with Dawnstone followed by a thin wash of Nuln Oil in order to restore the detailing. -I start off with a black basecoat, followed up with a coat of Vallejo Luftwaffe Camo Green on the hull and turret. And a view from the rear I also washed the cloaks on the rangers (Black Numenorean archers) to dull them down, I used a Nuln oil wash and am much happier with the result. Still I am going to debate about getting some paints. I then gave the head, hands and hair, all a wash with some Citadel "Reikland Fleshshade" wash. The lower part could be painted black, and the small upper parts, where there’s a pivot, were painted yellow. Three reasons why I used the Vallejo black wash over my usual Nuln Oil. We also want to avoid the stock of the gun if possible, although if some does get on the stock, then its easier to fix. I used nuln oil, vallejo black wash (too dark for my taste) and secret weapon soft body black (it seems to get the best results) with good finish for the pannel lines on my UCM, PHR and Resistance. depending on the color scheme of a character i went back and picked out some armor plates or the armored chestplate. I'm looking to get the black dirty look around bolt heads and in crevices, not terribly dirty. Tufts applied. I can assure you that Dark Tone Ink makes a perfect match for Badab Black. Painting battle damage Layer with Boltgun Metal some scratches on the Bolter Casing Wash the scratches with Badab Black Highlight the scratches with Mithril Silver. Some dabs of actual paint! Brown and black on belts and straps. The Outcasts are a lot more fiddly due to their small size and are slightly comical looking which is ironic given that essentially the Ghar are the Daleks/Space Nazis of the Gates of Antares universe. Clearing them fixes certain problems, like loading or formatting issues on sites. I think it has to do with the way the wash dries. but I experimented at this point and put that diluted Agrax/Nuln Oil wash over two of the. However, a Nuln Oil wash on top of the skin dulled it down nicely so now it looks the same as the rest of the Bloodbound. Zebulon's Seraphon Test Mini Hey all, well today I've been dabbling with a Seraphon (Lizardmen) colour scheme for Age of Sigmar. I then use the Games work shop black wash to blend the work in. I applied a 1:1 mix of Nuln Oil and Agrathearth Shade to the teeth, nails, and mouth areas. The black wash brings out the detail and adds an instant shade to the figures. Whilst a good chunk do make use of meeples or card tokens, a great many include plastic miniatures and these are a great opportunity to add a special touch to that board game. Fangs vs TIEs. At this phase I also wash the Purple and Red areas with Nuln Oil. Last time I left the Cape with a Nuln Oil wash. Yellow and black finally make an appearance! I used badab black (nuln oil) + chaos black (abbadon) for the blacks. The final step of this stage is to give the entire model a medium wash of Nuln Oil. But honestly, it would make more sense if The Army Painter just called them different things. However, a Nuln Oil wash on top of the skin dulled it down nicely so now it looks the same as the rest of the Bloodbound. Another Nuln Oil wash on guns. It comes to about 140 points (1/3rd of which is the Hsien) making it one of the more points-heavy starter sets, but also a good set for starter games. Another squad down! The Scout models are super-simple, mono-pose, and a bit heavy on the mold lines — but once built, they're nicely differentiated from each other. Using Citadel: Aggrax Earthshade; Nuln Oil; Seraphim Sepia; Metallics, get a 75/25 Nuln Oil/Water. I find the easiest way to get a pretty good finish is base coat and then a wash and build up from there. Black Magic Craft 161,207 views. As you can see I did change my mind on the face plate of this model halfway through! lol. The final stage of shading is a light 75/25 shade/water wash. I had a go with masking tape to get some stripes on the Reaver, which worked out ok, but I didn't get the clean edges I'd like, so more practice with that technique. Nuln Oil - wash coat, cap, rifle metal, black boots, and bases Calthan Brown - basecoat belt, ammo pouches, rifle wood, blanket roll, gloves, entrenching tool handle, brown ankle boots, khaki pants/puttees/helmets, and NCO fleece cap (this is the hardest step, and I actually broke it up into multiple steps when painting up 30 of these guys at a. I then use the Games work shop black wash to blend the work in. Wash Nuln Oil Dry brush Stromvermin fur Wash Agrax Eathshade Dry brush Dawnstone, Longbeard grey Dirt: Base coat Rhinox Hide Dry brush Steele Legion drab, Banenlade brown, Karak Stone, Terminatus stone Wash in random patterned on rocks and dirt Rikland fleshshade, Aothnian camoshade Wash whole base Agrax earthshade & water 3:1 Paint trim as. Ushabti Bone washed with Agrax Earthshade for the skulls and the faceplate. Various paints replicated the mutant leader's face and visor, with classic GW Baal Red wash tinting the optic. I then Highlighted about 90% of the surface area with Ulthuan grey before adding a final fine highlight of White Scar. And converted to be Black Numenoreans. Onto the wash, nuln oil daubed liberally over the whole thing. The Nuln Oil does a decent enough job as an all rounder and will suit some people who only want one black wash, or who only want to shop at GW. I apply a wash of Nuln Oil to the metal areas, and a 50/50 mix of RMS Red Ink and Brown Ink to the brass areas. Some dabs of actual paint! Brown and black on belts and straps. These are: 1 Nuln Oil, 1 Carroburg Crimson, 1 Drakenhof Nightshade, 1 Biel- tan Green, 1 Casandora Yellow, 1 Agrax Earthshade,. Drybrush all the parts with Runefang Steel. Wash Nuln Oil Dry brush Stromvermin fur Wash Agrax Eathshade Dry brush Dawnstone, Longbeard grey Dirt: Base coat Rhinox Hide Dry brush Steele Legion drab, Banenlade brown, Karak Stone, Terminatus stone Wash in random patterned on rocks and dirt Rikland fleshshade, Aothnian camoshade Wash whole base Agrax earthshade & water 3:1 Paint trim as. Choice is a good thing, and it's easier to add than take away. I finished them off by painting the highlights with Ultramarines Blue. -Next, the entire model gets a wash with Citadel Nuln Oil. The Games Workshop Shade Paint Set contains 8 pots of Citadel Paint which are designed to be applied over the base colours found in the Citadel Base Paint Set. The green seemed to take the Nuln Oil well on the test and the steel always comes out looking really nice under that wash. I then washed the both with Nuln Oil Gloss as I wanted to maintain a shiney finish whereas normal Nuln Oil does somewhat dull the Leadbelcher as I'm sure you're all aware. Secondly I washed over this colour with Games Workshop brown wash called Nuln Oil. I had initially tried the GW Nuln Oil but it did not define the features as much as I would have liked. Then, after everything had a while to dry, I gave both figures a wash using Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash using a wet brush. Wash them first with Nuln Oil, then with Agrax Earthshade. After that I used Tin Bitz to paint the pipes and doors. All in all, I think this took me about 2 weeks to finish. Quickshade Wash; An 18ml Bottle of Acrylic based Wash medium with semi-transparent shading pigment mixed in. I personally don't like the effect as much but it presents less of a challenge than the above method. Washes: Nuln Oil/Aggrax/Light Black Wash - Any acrylic or even an oil wash will work to shade the tile, use your favorite. No worries- I love to help! You could even make it all easier just by basecoating your models with Khorne red (don't forget the 'two thin coats' approach, especially over black primer) and then liberally wash it with nuln oil. In need of Badab Black - posted in + GENERAL PCA QUESTIONS +: I know its a discontinued wash, but I have a little less than half a bottle and over half of a army that needs that wash. Maybe to a 1:1 with water. For the wings, it was a couple of different Citadel metallic paints and Nuln Oil black wash to highlight the sculpted details. See more ideas about Modeling techniques, Mini paintings and Modeling tips. I finished the eyes with a couple layers of Nuln Oil, making sure that the lenses had a noticeable black border, then going back with Snot Green to lighten up the center of each lens. Nuln Oil is actually great to use and straight out of the pot too. Citadel Color Nuln Oil Wash A couple notes before we get started. To make your desired wash, just fill your container with the wash stock and add the ink in the following ratios:-"Heavy" black wash: 60 drops black ink per ounce of stock-"Soft" black wash: 20 drops black ink per ounce of stock-Colors: 40 drops ink per ounce of stock I currently use more black wash than any other color, so I made a large batch. Orc flash wash makes for a good & different brown wash, and can also work as leather on a gun strap. The reaper itself got primed with black on the wooden parts and white on the metal parts. badab black alternative Apr 24, 2012 Next is Dark Tone Ink and Badab Black. I have an engine block (Fiat Mefistofele) painted with Alclad dull aluminum. Afterwards, you can add your battle damage in a lighter metal colour and it will read as battle damage reasonably well against the darker background. I always watered the Drakenhof nightshade down and only used nuln oil in the deepest cracks. Because I use an oil wash I don't have to be too careful when applying this as it dries a lot slower than an acrylic wash. Bronze wash of Sepia, steel wash of Nuln Oil. Actually, all of the metal on this model is done that way. Here is the wash stage. Blacks: Everything black is first painted Vallejo Game Colour Black, then given a medium highlight where I mix in some Ghost Grey, and finally a second highlight where I mix in some more Ghost Grey. -Wash of Nuln Oil (you may want to dilute the Nuln Oil with some Lahmian Medium so it's a little less dark. You mix Liquitex Carbon Ink with Tamiya Clear Orange in a 1:1 ratio, and I think I diluted it with water or possibly Magic Wash. Wash Nuln Oil Dry brush Stromvermin fur Wash Agrax Eathshade Dry brush Dawnstone, Longbeard grey Dirt: Base coat Rhinox Hide Dry brush Steele Legion drab, Banenlade brown, Karak Stone, Terminatus stone Wash in random patterned on rocks and dirt Rikland fleshshade, Aothnian camoshade Wash whole base Agrax earthshade & water 3:1 Paint trim as. Which means it’s time to bust out our old friend, Nuln Oil. Spray GW Leadbelcher. You must be logged in to view this. Hopefully the brass will be subdued down to just being bright rather than the painful bling it currently has. I thin all my paint with Liquitex Matte Medium and water. Citadel paints are high quality acrylic paints. Painting battle damage Layer with Boltgun Metal some scratches on the Bolter Casing Wash the scratches with Badab Black Highlight the scratches with Mithril Silver. To delete everything, select. I also dot the barrel of the plasma pistol with black, and draw a few lines on the purity seal while I’m at it. Ushabti Bone washed with Agrax Earthshade for the skulls and the faceplate. Then, after everything had a while to dry, I gave both figures a wash using Citadel "Nuln Oil" wash using a wet brush. Their old Armour Wash was better. No I was not completely pleased with the look of this miniature but I did like the casting. Base -> Wash -> Highlight can give a great table top quality finish. And a view from the rear I also washed the cloaks on the rangers (Black Numenorean archers) to dull them down, I used a Nuln oil wash and am much happier with the result. Using a fine brush will help a lot, as when I am sloppy and get some wash on the panels, it needs cleaning. I finished them off by painting the highlights with Ultramarines Blue. 5: Paint metals and then wash metals with nuln oil 6: Black for the wheels with a grey drybrush over the top I will be weathering the whole army at once when the complete force is up to the same standard as it helps me keep consistency doing it in one giant batch. The bolter casing is painted P3 Coal Black and highlighted with Mechanicus Standard Grey. The storm bolter: The gun is painted with P3 Cold Steel and washed with Nuln Oil. So I repainted the model with Mephiston Red, this gave me a brighter red that looked like what I was going for. Painting straight out of the pot will eventually clog details with successive layers. Using Citadel: Aggrax Earthshade; Nuln Oil; Seraphim Sepia; Metallics, get a 75/25 Nuln Oil/Water. Now get a fine brush, and make them pop. When I paint black, I'll actually use a dark navy blue as my base coat. I have a bottle of the Nuln oil and a few months ago I picked up one of the large bottles of it to make sure I had enough for my army. Mephiston Red was used to clean up the Nuln Oil that strayed too far from the eyes. Highlight robes by painting with warpstone glow, ensuring that the paint is very thin. The Pre-Game. When the wash was dry, I first did highlights on the left one’s skin using a mix of Americana “Mississippi Mud, and Folk Art "Milkshake”. You can apply multiple coats in some areas to create added depth. I made washes with these using Lahmian (sp?) medium. In need of Badab Black - posted in + GENERAL PCA QUESTIONS +: I know its a discontinued wash, but I have a little less than half a bottle and over half of a army that needs that wash. The initial model weren't much to look at. Some final details (chapter badge, chest eagle,. Coat of Army Painter Black primer, followed by an over spray of Army painter Gun Metal Primer. Retreat from Moscow 1812 - or "White Death" White Death This means, that since Hamburger Tactica in Feb 2014, where I was first introduced to game in design called White Death 1812, I started gathering minis for this thema. The bolter is partly painted with Leadbelcher and washed with Nuln Oil. I hit it with the nuln oil and then let it dry. Then another coat of Gloss varnish, make sure this has at least a few hours to dry. Bring generics and your A-game. At this phase I also wash the Purple and Red areas with Nuln Oil. Painting straight out of the pot will eventually clog details with successive layers. It's a multi-part process that sounds worse then it is. I picked out some of the lenses with red and he was done! Bossk was also relatively simple – an Averland Sunset basecoat with a wash of Reikland Fleshshade, while the white areas were washed with a Nuln Oil/Lahmian Medium. B squad after the Nuln Oil Gloss wash on their torsos and legs. 14% green and 3. Next I apply Ceramite White to one of the cogs, as I think it gives the model something that draws the eye away from the black and silver and ties the army together as Iron. if you used a lighter shade for the first wash. I also dot the barrel of the plasma pistol with black, and draw a few lines on the purity seal while I’m at it. Normally, when using black as a spot colour I simply would paint a dark grey colour and then use black wash to knock it back slightly to create a very dark grey with black in the recesses. Their old Armour Wash was better. I also tried to make his skin a bit darker by giving it a wash of Nuln Oil, followed by to glazes of Beil-Tan Green. Hopefully I have enough to finish both my main forces. Washes: Nuln Oil/Aggrax/Light Black Wash - Any acrylic or even an oil wash will work to shade the tile, use your favorite. Upper coats Leaving the recesses, repeat the upper coats for the armour. Another Nuln Oil wash on guns. To make this awesome wash, I used equal parts of Devlin Mud, and Badab Black (now Agrax Earthshade, and Nuln Oil respectively), and mixed that with two parts of Gyphonne Sepia (now Sepherim Sepia). I had initially tried the GW Nuln Oil but it did not define the features as much as I would have liked. The Empire: First five Knights of the Black Rose finished Liche Purple (the old GW colour but haven't seen any that look better in my opinion) and then a AP Dark Tone wash (Nuln Oil works the same) then re highlight the purple again with Liche Purple and then do thin layers with Warlock Purple to work up the highlight. Black watered down to the chainmail, highlighted with chainmail wet-dry brush. The primary new techniques I used are the blotched weathering on the rokkits, the simple freehanding of both the rotors and back wings, and the weathering of the bottom. I'm using it as a substitute for Nuln Oil, so I wanted a dirty, black brown wash) Add water until you end up with a milk-like consistency. Bring generics and your A-game. The sabers turned out really nice. The armor on this Black Orc was just plain black and then given an edge highlight of Runefang. Citadel Shade: Nuln Oil (0. Dry brush highlighted with Ushabti/Ulthuan Grey and Necron Compound. Nuln Oil and Badab are better and easier to use for that effect. Nuln oil to grey. So, to make this article clear I’ll be using the names above exclusively to refer to each item. (To recap earlier this had been basecoated in ironbreaker and then washed with the 50:50 nuln oil:drakenhof mix) Now, the silver was highlighted with Ironbreaker first. Very fine drybrush with Codex Grey (any mid grey will do) 4. I used a wash of 'Nuln Oil' for the shading and followed up with some drybrushing. Lighter brown drybrush, larger stones painted with fang+nuln oil+administratum grey+agrax earthshade. I then Highlighted about 90% of the surface area with Ulthuan grey before adding a final fine highlight of White Scar. A couple weeks back I convinced myself I'm the best Fang pilot in the galaxy. September 2019 Painting Guide or leave it Zadari Dust and heavy Agrax Wash, Packs: Backpacks, Gore Grunter Brown or Gun Packs Administratum Grey with Nuln Oil Wash, Guns: Administratum Grey with a heavy Nuln oil wash, Vests: One of Four Options (not the same as the pants): Black Templar, Levidon Blue. Step 5 - Second Highlight. Nuln oil added to tone down. Proxxon Hotwire Cutter (Thermocut) - This is the workhorse of my shop. May the wash be with you. Painting the Black Coach. I then used Brass Scorpion (my favourite metal, but the pot needs shaking a lot whilst in use) for the metallic parts. Jumpsuit/clothing – Mechanicum Standard Grey and then wash Nuln Oil. I then Highlighted about 90% of the surface area with Ulthuan grey before adding a final fine highlight of White Scar. I do not have that ease of use with the Agrax. Base colours blocked in. Sepia Wash -Black Wash – Pale Grey Wash – Umber Wash – Flesh Wash – Green Wash – Red Wash. Orc flash wash makes for a good & different brown wash, and can also work as leather on a gun strap. -Next, the entire model gets a wash with Citadel Nuln Oil. I am about to paint a World Eaters Dread and will try to wash the silver "machine" parts with Nuln Oil to achieve a grimy, oily look. It’s true that modern non-reflective paint is a dirt-magnet, but at least in the USAF the planes are washed every 1-2 weeks (via a drive-through wash station). I can easily see myself producing an all wolf army for my Space Wolves force. Nuln Oil (Black shade good for most things. I had a go with masking tape to get some stripes on the Reaver, which worked out ok, but I didn't get the clean edges I'd like, so more practice with that technique. Now, Nuln Oil and some other GW washes (they call them shades) are, sometimes unfairly, referred to as "talent in a bottle. I apply a wash of Nuln Oil to the metal areas, and a 50/50 mix of RMS Red Ink and Brown Ink to the brass areas. Hopefully the brass will be subdued down to just being bright rather than the painful bling it currently has. With the base coat on the whites and metallics all blocked in, it came time for a wash to add some definition. Actually, all of the metal on this model is done that way. He also got less highlights. Black templar is good for well oddly a darker wash than nuln oil. The process is very simple and the end results are often quite effective, I also think it gives completion to the model and looks great on the gaming table when your entire army are all based the same. The long sword look pleased me and I thought it would be good. I also added the next layer onto the gem, in a smaller crescent - about. Mechanicus Standard Grey on the normal plate. Nuln oil black wash to chain mail and weapons. But the packing tray unit was clearly designed for the Starter Paint set. let the wash dry, it only takes 30 minutes, provided you weren't too heavy-handed with the wash. Before I apply the Lamp Black oil wash, I get transfers applied and paint the metals (If I plan to oil wash these, sometimes I use Nuln oil and then it's not as important). The black was highlighted by mixing with Sombre Grey. The lower part could be painted black, and the small upper parts, where there’s a pivot, were painted yellow. At first I tried to replicate GW's method for painting highlights, but I soon switched to a dry brushing technique when I found that I wasn't very good with producing consistent fine lines. The Nuln Oil is the same as Badarb black, so won't be a replacement for black ink. I then washed the curtains with Nuln Oil. So I used the suggested black-grey theme. The Games Workshop Shade Paint Set contains 8 pots of Citadel Paint which are designed to be applied over the base colours found in the Citadel Base Paint Set. OK, I saw this on a website as a way to make 'oily' metal. Orc flash wash makes for a good & different brown wash, and can also work as leather on a gun strap. This recipe also works for how to wash suede clothes that have oil stains. Add a drop or two of Dawn, depending on how much you're making. Edited November 23, 2014 by oneway. Base -> Wash -> Highlight can give a great table top quality finish. I then hit all the metal bits with Leadbelcher and the gold parts with Gehenna's Gold. No I was not completely pleased with the look of this miniature but I did like the casting. Some final details (chapter badge, chest eagle,. I used a Dark Angels Green for a base coat on the Black Orcs, did a wash of Nuln Oil, layered with Waaagh Flesh followed by a highlight of Warboss Green. badab black alternative Apr 24, 2012 Next is Dark Tone Ink and Badab Black. the Vallejo black wash dries flat. The lower part could be painted black, and the small upper parts, where there’s a pivot, were painted yellow. Another Nuln Oil wash on guns. Basecoat with Caliban Green and washed with Nuln Oil. The Rapier carriage was done in the same style as the rest of the Legion's vehicles (and indeed the infantry models too) - Leadbelcher and Brass Scorpion basecoat with an allover Nuln Oil wash, followed by Reikland Fleshshade on the gold. I alternate between a dark black wash, soft black wash and a brown. I think my base, Mechanicus Standard Grey, might be too close to the Dawnstone layer in tone. Finally decided to just speed up the work on this model as it should be an easy job with my designated method for Dark Angels (Base Caliban,. When that was dry I added 2 highlight dry brushings of a medium and light gray. As has been mentioned, pva or a wash medium is what you need in order to convert a regular acrylic paint into a true wash that flows correctly. The Stalker went through the same process just Dark Brown base, Lighter Brown drybrush and a Brown tone Ink wash. It is our mission to bring you the latest from the miniature wargaming scene, from narrative missions, hobby how to tutorials, battle reports, unboxings and reviews, retro flashbacks, news, rumors and more. The final step of this stage is to give the entire model a medium wash of Nuln Oil. The green seemed to take the Nuln Oil well on the test and the steel always comes out looking really nice under that wash. In the background, if you are interested, is the set up for the Battle of Fornovo 1495 using Warlord's Pike and Shotte rules. I didn't think the black base coat was useful and I wanted a bit more depth so I added a wash. Nuln Oil Wash. Black armour: Chaos Black base, Mechanicus Standard Grey layer, Pipes, straps & gun barrels: Ironbreaker base, Nuln Oil wash; Bullets: Runelord Brass + Xv88 base, Agrax Earthshade wash; Robes: Khorne Red base, Nuln Oil wash, Mephiston Red layer; Skin: Rakarth Flesh base, Reikland Flesh wash, Pallid Wych Flesh layer. 2nd batch of Aliens, this time I could not resist and make one stand out, the famous “grid” Alien from the AvP movie. I highlighted them with Xereus Purple by picking out all of the edges and the tops of all of the folds. Onto the wash, nuln oil daubed liberally over the whole thing. I applied a general wash with Agrax Earthshade (Citadel Shade) or/and Nuln Oil (Citadel Shade) in areas where I wanted a deeper effect. Hair color, some feathers. Basecoat Leadbelcher with a small base brush; Wash Nuln Oil with a small layer layer brush; Highlight Runefang Steel with a small layer brush; Gold. These models had been previously painted, I stripped the paint off them the best I could, scrubbed them with a toothbrush, and hit them with a black base coat. The bolter casing is painted P3 Coal Black and highlighted with Mechanicus Standard Grey. 8 out of 5 stars 399 $34. The white details were basecoated in Rakarth and then washed with Nuln Oil (black wash). As with all of Citadel paints, it is a non-toxic, water-based acrylic paint designed for use on plastic, metal, and resin Citadel miniatures. How To Make Nuln Oil And Agrax Earthshade Cheap And Easy Lukes Aps - Geek Gaming Scenics. If you have oil stains on silk, scrape off any excess oil then sprinkle with cornstarch. Dark Tone Ink seems to be lighter in the recesses but this is only because I applied it in a lighter coat. Overall, I think both of the models turned out fine. Finally I did the markings, bombs and the canopy. The Royal Guard had Nuln Oil (Black Ink) Instead of Blue for the classic look. (You can play with this to get a color you like or that works for you. Not sure if that would affect it as much. Another Nuln Oil wash on guns. Random, small piece splashes of color (washes) to differentiate duplicates. 0 Pavel [ dodano: 08. Why not one colour? Well, the toy of Razorclaw has yellow hips and upper legs, with black lower legs. This was layered with Khorne Red, first with a thinned coat then a solid layer to create a better blending transition. Bring generics and your A-game. A spray of Caliban green, some green drybrushing, a wash of Nuln Oil, and these guys were practically complete. If I had to choose just one I would probably go for the Vallejo wash as the price would just tip it over the edge for me - such great value!. Citadel Shade: Nuln Oil (0. At the top right, click More. In praise of Army Painter Strong Tone wash Posted on March 24, 2019 by Neil Shuck in Painting & Modelling // 6 Comments I have probably mentioned several times in the last that I am something of an enforced painted – I paint because I really don’t like the look of bare plastic and metal on the tabletop. Here's another of the new plastic characters from the Space Marine release. Citadels Nuln Oil Wash. To show what I mean let's take a look at Jim Henson's Labyrinth: The Board Game from River Horse. Blue-ish/Green-ish turorial Gw Leadbelcher Base Gw Nuln oil Pin Wash (remember pin wash it's a technique where you only apply the… Legion of the Damned test Flames pattern (this step doesn't need to be detailed) Martian ironearth Black Gray dry brush…. The K-Series Infant (Alien Vs Predator Extinction) was Skeleton Bone base with a Yellow Glaze and Brown tone Ink wash. finally a final shading of citadel nuln oil was applied to the deepest parts. The Empire: First five Knights of the Black Rose finished Liche Purple (the old GW colour but haven't seen any that look better in my opinion) and then a AP Dark Tone wash (Nuln Oil works the same) then re highlight the purple again with Liche Purple and then do thin layers with Warlock Purple to work up the highlight. When I paint black, I'll actually use a dark navy blue as my base coat. A base of Mechanicus Standard Grey, Nuln Oil used sparingly to pick out the details, then a drybrush of Dawnstone followed by a lighter layer of Administratum Grey. View all articles on this page Previous article Next article. Afterwards, you can add your battle damage in a lighter metal colour and it will read as battle damage reasonably well against the darker background. I now apply a second coat of Nuln Oil over the camo patches to darken them further. I hit it with the nuln oil and then let it dry. For the yellows I used ivanden (averland) + skull white highlights (white scar) +casandra yellow shade + lamenters yellow. Games Workshop and Southsea Models), and Miniature Shows (e. Brassy Brass; Glorious Gold; Heavy Blackgreen; Scarlett Red; White Primer; Basecoating. Leadbelcher washed with Nuln oil for the chains and pipes. Then dark brown+pva+water mix used to paint all over. (like the Nuln Oil) - my results always had the high areas darkened, and the low/recesses (cuts in clothing) left alone. The model will transform from black into grey, but the deepest recesses will remain dark / black. I use multiple washes per mini. Citadel Shade: Nuln Oil (24 ml) 65,00 kr SEK Köp. Make sure it's fully coated. Spray GW Leadbelcher. At this phase I also wash the Purple and Red areas with Nuln Oil. The best way I've done the white parts is as follows:-Prime black. Paint List: GW Mechanicus Standard Grey GW Dawnstone GW Karak Stone GW Abaddon Black GW Nuln Oil Woodland Scenic Soft Flake Snow PVA Glue. Citadels Nuln Oil Wash. Agrax Earthshade (make sure not to get the glossy one) or Vallejo's Umber Wash are good on warmer colors, unless you prefer the darker, oily look that Nuln Oil has. With the base coat on the whites and metallics all blocked in, it came time for a wash to add some definition. The base was first painted in Macragge Blue, then I dry brushed in Altdorf Guard Blue followed by Calgar Blue and finally a very light brushing of White Scar. This was layered with Khorne Red, first with a thinned coat then a solid layer to create a better blending transition. Fairly simple process. These models had been previously painted, I stripped the paint off them the best I could, scrubbed them with a toothbrush, and hit them with a black base coat. Why are there text errors?. I'll give my yellow marines a Nuln Oil (black) wash over their base coat, then when I'm doing skin, use a flesh wash like Reikland Flesh or what I still have, the old Ogryn Flesh, metal bits get another Nuln Oil wash before they get highlights. The Stalker went through the same process just Dark Brown base, Lighter Brown drybrush and a Brown tone Ink wash. Her reactor stepped up its output, a deep whine spooling up behind her. Edit - Sorry I should have also explained, putting a black wash straight onto plastic miniatures will not hold the paint. -Next, all the metals were painted with Vallejo Silver. The black was highlighted by mixing with Sombre Grey. I had initially tried the GW Nuln Oil but it did not define the features as much as I would have liked. In praise of Army Painter Strong Tone wash Posted on March 24, 2019 by Neil Shuck in Painting & Modelling // 6 Comments I have probably mentioned several times in the last that I am something of an enforced painted – I paint because I really don’t like the look of bare plastic and metal on the tabletop. And here's the Nuln Oil wash. Nuln Oil is actually great to use and straight out of the pot too. The Nuln Oil does a decent enough job as an all rounder and will suit some people who only want one black wash, or who only want to shop at GW. Full List of the New Citadel Paints and More. I finished the eyes with a couple layers of Nuln Oil, making sure that the lenses had a noticeable black border, then going back with Snot Green to lighten up the center of each lens. Washes (nuln oil/agrax earthshade/reikland flesh) are generally used as an intermediate step after basecoating to easily apply low lights to a model. For speed and because of lack of skill, I use cans of spray-paint as much as model acrylic paint, so washes are a necessary part of my "production line". I made washes with these using Lahmian (sp?) medium. I hit all the metal areas with a wash of GW Nuln Oil Gloss to blackline, the gloss varnish made the already thin gloss wash just run straight to the details without really doing anything to the flats. #1 Nuln Oil has a bit of shine to it which is not ideal for bone. I have now finished my 1,000pt Ghar Empire starter battleforce just in time for another game at the HATE Club: A very simple colour scheme for quick painting - Battlesuits: Spray GW Chaos Black. Dry brush highlighted with Ushabti/Ulthuan Grey and Necron Compound. Using Citadel: Aggrax Earthshade; Nuln Oil; Seraphim Sepia; Metallics, get a 75/25 Nuln Oil/Water. Hive Fleet Draugr - a black & white paint scheme. Then I added Nihilakh Oxide and Typhus Corrosion. Vallejo Medieval Colors Paint Set, 17ml in Paints. Wash with Badab Black or Nuln OIl Highlight with Mithril Silver. the Vallejo black wash dries flat.